Ode to Freddy

Freddy Leads us through Italy

Let me begin by assuring my family that, no, I have not reconnected with my old imaginary childhood friend whose name was Freddie (with an “I E” - as in the one from Scooby-Doo).  I must give my parents immediate peace of mind as Freddie and I used to wreak some havoc together back in the day. I’m certain the thought that he and I may be scheming again may cause my aging parents cardiac distress, and worse yet, my poor, sweet dog to tremble in fear from the grave (a long story that involves Freddie, me, my white long-haired Maltese, new furniture, and a lot of baby oil). In my defense, I was four, Freddie told me to do it, and I only wanted to make everything – including my dog – glisten…

No, this ode is to Freddy (with a “Y”) Morgan, our delightful courier.  He is French…and he totally rocks (not just because he’s French, although that earns him bonus points in my book). He does not know it yet, but we have taken a secret vote and have unanimously agreed that he must come home with us. He is, by far, the most fascinating individual any of us has ever met. 

Freddy & Rob Share a Dance

 Freddy has a Ph.D. in sociology, which he obtained in India where he wrote his dissertation on the caste system. He speaks eleven (yes 11!!) languages. He lives in Seville, Spain with his lovely wife and an adorably fat kitty (I’ve seen pictures – the cat is 20 lbs!) He paints, plays piano, and volunteers as a clown in a children’s oncology unit at the hospital where his wife is a nurse. He and his wife spend time each year in Vietnam where they started an orphanage. They take care of 30 Vietnamese children.

Not only is Freddy tremendously kind and insanely smart, but he is a riot! He amuses the students, and the four adults are encouraging him to either write a book or go on the road with his stand up comedy routine. My abdominal muscles actually hurt from laughing so hard! He kept us in stitches telling us some of the ridiculous questions people ask him while on tour. For example, the woman who asked, “Freddy, where do they put the original Eiffel Tower?” to which he jokingly responded, “In the Louvre.” Later that evening, she came storming back over to him and said, “I was at the Louvre tonight.” He thought he was going to get what for, then the woman said, “The workers there are idiots. They don’t even know where the original Eiffel Tower is!” Wow…

How the Nuns Roll the Dough...

So, I’d like to invite all of the students and chaperons to post their favorite Freddy story here as a way to say, “Thanks Freddy! You’re the best!”

Arrivederci Italia!

Colosseum - Rome

Can you believe it?! After not getting any WiFi service since arriving in Italy, I connected to the Internet twice in one day! Our last day in Italy was a great one despite the oppressive heat. During the morning, everyone (except Gimpy here) went to tour the Forum and the Colosseum. Since it was so brutally hot, they all took a two hour break for lunch before we all got on a charter bus and headed for the catacombs outside the city limits.

The catacombs were very interesting. They date back to the 300s and the area in which we explored was the first Christian burial ground. Very early popes and saints were buried here, and they are also the place where early Christians would meet to worship away from the persecution of the Romans. Directly above it was the Appian Way, so the priest who gave the tour explained that since that was the most traveled road of the day, it wasn't so easy for Christians. 

After the catacombs, we had a little free time, then dinner. Our last dinner in Rome was so much fun. We had bruschetta, authentic pizza and tiramisu. Samantha was celebrating her 18th birthday today, and Olivia had a birthday earlier on the tour, so our courier went out of his way to arrange a special birthday surprise at the restaurant. There was great food, fantastic conversations, and lots of laughter - truly a perfect ending to a wonderful trip!

Our wake up call will be at 4 AM - which is only 10 PM your time! We fly to Charles de Gaulle, then on to JFK! It's hard to believe our European adventure is over, but we are glad to come home to our families tomorrow! We will see you all before you know it!

Friday, July 29

Today was exceptional for me as I got to rejoin the real world! I made my way around Rome today, but instead of walking with the group (my foot isn't quite ready for that) I went from place to place via taxi. Taxi drivers in Rome are either very brave or completely insane. I thought people in Paris drove like maniacs. They look like Amish in buggies compared to Roman drivers. Mama mia! The most comical, yet somehow impressive, sight, though, is the Italian women in designer duds and 5-inch stilettos riding around on motor scooters! I don't know how practical (or safe) it is, but they look positively stunning doing it!

We began at the church of Santa Maria della Concezione where we saw the bones of thousands of Capuchin friars - a sight I have been waiting over five years to see. Some were still whole skeletons with their brown robes covering their bones. But the majority of the bones were the decor. Seriously. The monks used the skeletal remains of their departed brethren to create the most amazing geometric shapes.  Some students found it creepy and made their way out pretty quickly. The more twisted souls  amongst our group (myself included) thought this was one of the most fascinating sights of the trip. We were not permitted to take photos, so if you don't believe me or really dig the macabre, you will have to Google it!

We then walked a few blocks to the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria, where Bill got to see the sculpture he has most wanted to - Bernini's The Ecstasy of St. Theresa. Not only was the sculpture awe-inspiring, the entire Baroque church was amazing. Even if you're not religious, you cannot help but marvel at the craftsmanship and spectacular art that adorn the churches of Italy and France.

Bernini's The Ecstasy of St Theresa

 The students and chaperons went off to shop and I went back to the hotel to rest my foot for a couple of hours. I must say that I do appreciate the hospitality of the Romans. The staff at our hotel has been so kind to me. They made me sandwiches at no charge and made sure my foot is taken care of...even housekeeping stops to ask if I'm okay. 

I rejoined our group at the Vatican, where our guide, Fabio, gave us a very informative tour. Tara and I were secretly hoping that Fabio would be big and buff with long flowing hair and a white unbuttoned shirt billowing in the breeze - not because we like that sort of thing (we don't!), but because it would have just been really funny. This Fabio was small, thin, had short hair, and a navy blue polo shirt with no breeze to billow it. Oh well.
There were several reactions to the Vatican. Many thought it was beautiful, and it is difficult to argue that fact. Some thought it overwhelming, which makes sense - it is HUGE. A few of us had a discussion as to how we had mixed feelings - both impressed and angered by its opulence. I personally could have stood at Michelangelo's Pieta all day. It is, to me, the most moving piece of art I have ever seen - but not from a religious perspective as much as from a mother's perspective. Seeing Mary hold/cradle her dead son brings me to tears. It is especially interesting to learn that pieta does not mean pity as many would assume. It actually means devotion. So, to see Michelangelo's masterpiece and contemplate the meaning of devotion on multiple levels is a beautiful thing.

Michelangelo's Pieta

Jennifer & Bill - St Peter's Square, Vatican

 I decided from here that I was ready to tackle Rome by foot, and so I walked to dinner, then to the metro, then to the hotel. Then I was ready for some Advil, ice and sleep!

But one last thought before I end this day's tales. The students of Lewisburg and Selinsgrove are no more. It's like they are the students of Selinsburg or Lewisgrove. The school divisions have disappeared. One student came to me and said they wished the trip would never end because they will really miss seeing their new friends every day. We reminded them that between texting and Facebook, they would still have contact. Besides, the two towns are not that far away! But it is great to see such great kids get along so well. They have made the trip a total pleasure!

"Selinsburg/Lewisgrove" Group in St Peter's Square, Vatican

Thursday, July 28th

Sorry I have not blogged since Paris. Besides being in a perpetual state of mourning after leaving the best city on earth, the Internet service in Italy has been anything but functional. 

Florence, Italy

We spent the past two days in Florence. Tuesday, our first day, was a blur as we were all going on about 3 or 4 hours of sleep.  Our guide, Freddy, took us to the Pitti Palace to explore. After about an hour of walking in there, Bill and I were so exhausted we decided to sit at the café inside and have a cool drink. I tell you no lie when I say that we both fell asleep at the table! As embarrassed as I was, it didn’t stop me from moving to a nearby bench to continue my nap. We were all dragging on our way to dinner and I think the locals thought a gaggle of zombies had hit town. So, it was agreed that early bed was a must. 

Ponte Vecchio - Florence

Wednesday was better for most. Students were treated to the Ufizzi Museum, a hike up a huge mountain that overlooked the city (a spectacular view!), St Croce where they saw the graves of people like Machiavelli and Michelangelo, and a beautiful organ concert of Baroque music at night. It was magical…or so I was told. 

I had my own little cultural experience with the Italian health care system. Wednesday morning I woke up with a swollen, red, and painful left foot.  As lunchtime approached and I had added a fever to the list, it was clear that the blister on my foot had become infected and I needed antibiotics. This really is no big deal, except I don’t speak a lick of Italian. Not speaking the language as a tourist is fine for walking through town as grunting and pointing at the sandwich or t-shirt you want will suffice. If they give you the wrong thing, oh well. No harm, no foul. Not so much when you have the need to communicate not only that you are in need of antibiotics, but that you are allergic to several! After a nearly 4 hour wait (sounds just like the US!) the doctor (who thankfully spoke a little English) had the nurse clean it, but antibiotic gel and a sterile dressing on it and gave me a “recipe” (prescription) for antibiotics (and thankfully, the names of drugs must be universal because he knew exactly what I was talking about!) Then he told me, “You no walk on it here for few days.” To which I replied, “But I’m going to Rome tomorrow!” He then looked at me like I was an idiot and said, “Then you no walk on it in Roma.” Duh.

Now here is the best part – the bill. Yes, you read that correctly, the bill. It was a total of €22,45 (18,60 for the visit, 3,85 for the gel medicine). Then I went to the pharmacy where I paid €13,94 for antibiotics. For those of us that are not mathematically gifted, that is a total of €36,39 or approximately $55. That is less than my co-pay for an ER visit in the US!! And if I was an EU citizen, it would have been my favorite price: FREE! Holy smokes! And for the record -this was no backwoods hospital – it was just as modern as a Geisinger or Evan. My prescription is made by GlaxoSmithKline, so it’s not voodoo juice or anything like that. This combined with the fact that college tuition is free here has Bill nearly convinced that we should move to France…

So, I am okay…and the kids are awesome. They made me a nice get-well note, which really touched me. Since a few of them have found out I dislike being called Jenny, they have not stopped calling me Jenny - but they say it like Forrest Gump. So, Connor and Jesse's message to me read "I love you Jen-nay." Cracked me up - laughter is the best medicine! (I'm sure the Bell family will not be surprised that Connor is the ringleader in this little game, but now everyone calls him Jen-nay, too!) LOL

We arrived safely in Rome this afternoon. I am sitting with my foot propped up in the hotel room while the rest are checking out Rome. Tomorrow is a busy day, and they are trying to convince me to do the Vatican in a wheelchair. I will probably consider it – as long as Bill doesn’t drive!

Last Day In Paris

Today's blog will be short and sweet...it is nearly 1 AM Paris time, and I have to get up in 3 hours to catch our flight to Italy. In addition, I am in a state of mourning that my time in Paris has come to an end. I didn't even get to go shopping...how sad is that?! I have only 1 souvenir from Paris. I am distraught. I guess I will have to come back in a couple of months, right?!

Book Club inside Shakespeare & Co - Paris

Today was our big book club. I'm afraid I bored most of the girls dragging them place to place all around Paris, but they did get to have their book club in one of the most famous book shops in the world - Shakespeare and Company! I think preparing them ahead of time with the history of the shop helped them really appreciate what a big deal it is to have the honor of meeting there.

Shakespeare & Co - Paris

While touring the Jewish Quarter of the Marais, we stopped for pastries...I had to treat the girls to real Parisian pastries before they left. It is an actual crime if you don't have any while in Paris, and I certainly did not want them to be punished by the pastry police. When I went to pay, the women behind the counter told me that they were so impressed with the girls and how polite they were. They must have been genuinely impressed as they gave me my pastry "on the house!"

La Mémorial de la Shoah - Paris

Book Club Group at the Mémorial de la Shoah - Paris

The other highlight, I believe was the Mémorial de la Shoah. We had a wonderful English speaking guide named Ben who took us through the museum and did a fabulous job teaching everyone about the Holocaust in France. After that, we were all ready to lighten the mood and so we reconnected with the rest of the group for dinner and a cruise on the River Seine.

Eiffel Tower at Sunset

I don't think anyone saw, but by the end of the cruise, I was fighting back tears...I realized these were my last moments in Paris and was overwhelmed with sadness at the thought of saying goodbye to the most beautiful city in the world. 

And on this note, I must say bonne nuit or I will be a cranky little girl in the morning if I don't get some sleep. Next time I write, I will be saying buongiorno from Firenze Italia! Bring on the PASTA!

Au Revoir!

Kings and Queens

Bonsoir !

At Versailles

Today, we were the Kings and Queens of Paris as we toured the magnificent Château de Versailles, its gardens, apartments (the Trianons) and Marie Antoinette's Hamlet. While everyone was impressed with the castle itself, most agreed that the Hamlet was, by far, the best part of the visit. 

Marie Antoinette's Hamlet

Marie Antoinette's Hamlet

Marie Antoinette's Hamlet

 In order to cover so much ground, many students rented bicycles, and a few even rented segues. As for the four old folks, we rented a golf cart. Sure it sounds leisurely until you understand that Bill was driving. Anyone who has ever been in a vehicle with Bill will understand the danger this involved. To make my point for those who don't know what I mean, here is an example: He decided to go off the path outlined on the map. I warned him not to, he didn't listen (shocking, I know!) Within 20 seconds, an alarm went off out of nowhere came the golf cart police on a motor-scooter! Clearly very annoyed he chased us down, scolded Bill, and made us drive in reverse to where we were supposed to be (seriously!) The students, on the other hand, were much better behaved than their "adult" chaperon. LOL

Neptune's Fountain - Versailles

Neptune's Fountain - Versailles

 After a six hour day at Versailles, we headed to Notre Dame, and then to dinner. We ate at a Greek restaurant La Meteora and had a fantastic meal. The best part was the live Greek musicians that serenaded us, then made the students get up and dance. Your children ALL danced on tabletops! It was fantastic! I nearly dodged the bullet, but Tara called out Freddy (our courier), Rob Whyne and me and we were left with no choice but to jump up on tables and chairs and perform. I think we rocked it out. However, your children may be permanently emotionally scarred, and for that, I am truly sorry.

Freddy, Rob & Jennifer Dancing on Tabletops

One final story from yesterday before I wish you bonne nuit. While at Montmartre, Bill told a few of the guys he'd give them a Euro if they could get their hand on a pigeon. I then witnessed one of my most quiet, reserved students get his Ninja on. Jesse not only put his hand on a pigeon, he snatched it up fast as lightening and stood there with it in his hands! Bill gave him 2 Euros...and Connor gave him hand sanitizer! (no worries...no pigeons or Jesses were injured!)

Your children are well and having a wonderful time. We are really enjoying sharing this amazing experience with them - they are awesome!

Paris: City of Stairs

Bonsoir !

Even though it rained and many of us needed a light sweater to ward off the chill, the students learned very quickly that there is no such thing as a bad day in Paris! Our morning began with a two-hour coach bus tour of much of Paris. Everyone was very excited to finally have a photo op at the Eiffel Tower.  

At the Eiffel Tower

We then explored the Panthéon from crypt to dome. While in the crypt, we all said "bonjour" to the likes of Voltaire, Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Marie & Pierre Curie, and several other dead people the students learned about in history. We then walked up 206 stairs to the dome and one of the best panoramic views Paris has to offer.

View of Paris from the Panthéon

 After a lunch of crêpes we spent a little time shopping, then went off to Montmartre where we saw the Moulin Rouge, then walked up many, many, many more stairs (I am guessing around 132 million or so...at least that's what my jello legs are telling me!) Students enjoyed the view from the Butte de Montmartre and we even saw a double rainbow that ended over Paris, thus proving that Paris IS the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow!

Rainbow Over Paris

Because the 132,000,206 stairs were not enough, we added a few hundred more by climbing to the top of the Arc de Triomphe. We had originally planned to go there tomorrow evening, but then realized that the Tour de France will be ending there around 4:00 PM and decided against it. While it would be a neat experience, it also invites overwhelmingly large crowds and in turn, lots of pickpockets!

Some of the Many Stairs of Paris

Perhaps more importantly, our students learned another valuable lesson about Paris today; the drivers are certifiably insane! In fact, I heard many a seventeen year old exclaim that if they lived in Paris they'd NEVER drive...so, if you don't want to buy your child a car, just move to Paris and problem solved! Practical advice, I know.

It is well past my bed time and we have a very important date tomorrow with the Sun King at Versailles! And so I must bid you bonne nuit !

We're Here!!

Bonjour !

We have safely arrived in the City of Light! Besides a mild panic attack at seeing a lightening storm out of my plane window (Bill assured me it was 100 miles away, but I am CERTAIN it was 20 feet away!) and being woken out of my Xanax-induced stupor to exclaim, "We're going to crash!" at the turbulence we had hit, it was a pretty uneventful flight. Tara did nearly tear off Austin's arm when we landed (I can't blame her as our pilot must have been showing how he could land on only his right wheels, and I'm pretty sure the right wings were about 1 cm from the runway). I know this because my eyes were shut the entire time...

We are at our hotel...half of us have rooms and the other half are still waiting. Many of our students have a real sense of accomplishment as Bill and I coached them and they ordered their entire lunch in French. They were VERY excited! We're headed out in 15 minutes to the Louvre, and then off to have our first French dinner. More later...

Happy Bastille Day!

Let me be the first (and most likely only) person to wish you a Happy Bastille Day! That's right - the French Revolution started 222 years ago today with the demolition of Bastille, complete with angry French peasants, oblivious monarchs, and severed heads on pikes. Yes, the birth of the French Republic and the notions of liberté, égalité, fraternité are certainly worth celebrating...but so is the fact that exactly one week from today, we are leaving for Europe!  Interestingly, one of the very first sights we will see is the Place de la Bastille. Isn't it amazing to think that in just a few days we will all be walking the streets of Paris with a baguette in hand looking très chic?!

I am looking forward to seeing you at Sunday's Bon Voyage Fête. Please be sure to RSVP to Bill or me if you have not already done so.

Until then...au revoir!

For Book Club Members

Bonjour ! It is only 20 days until we leave...and only 24 days until our book club! That means, if you have not started to read Sarah's Key (Tatiana de Rosnay) yet, then you probably should. We are going to focus our day around WWII and the Holocaust in Paris. We will look at what life was like during the Occupation through the eyes of four women active in the Left Bank literary/academic scene: a French Jew (Hélène Berr), an immigrant Jew, (Irène Némirovsky), a French non-Jew (Adrienne Monnier), and an American (Sylvia Beach). 

In order to prepare for our discussions and the day's amazing activities, I have some extra reading I would like you to do. Don't worry - it's not intense or lengthy reading! You should be able to read it all in 30 minutes or so. I also included some video links that you might enjoy. Click on the links below to get to the assignments:

La Rafle du Vel d'Hiv
Holocaust in Paris

Hélène Berr

Irène Némirovsky
Irène Némirovsky Video

Adrienne Monnier

Sylvia Beach 
Sylvia Beach/Adrienne Monnier Video (Excerpt from Paris Was a Woman - watch only first 5 minutes)

If you want to watch all of Paris Was a Woman, it is on YouTube in eight parts.

Let me know if you have any questions or would like more information on anything. I'm looking forward to our trip and our day together on July 25th! Until then...à bientôt !